Ghost town, with its mysteries are always fascinating to visit them for their stories that are left behind. Dhanushkodi along the east coast of India, had been beckoning for a while. Finally, with the long weekend in April, we managed to drive to this ghost town.
Dhanushkodi has no elaborate architecture to boast of nor any mystic stories nor any ghost sightings. It has been declared as a ghost town as it was unfit for inhabitation, following a natural disaster in 1960s. I have read about it all but nothing prepared me for tge sad tale that the town had to tell me on my visit. It is best that I let Dhanushkodi, in first person, take over this post & share its own story – from how it came into existence to what is left of it now.
The Legends Of Dhanushkodi
My name – Dhanushkodi literally means, end of a bow. It was due to Lord Rama of the Ramayana fame that I got this name. When his wife Sita, was captured by Ravana, Lord Rama along with his monkey army was all set to cross the ocean to get to Lanka. With Sri Lanka just being 30 kms from me, I seemed to be the best point to build a bridge that would take the army across the ocean. Lord Rama marked a spot on me with the end of his bow & that was the reason, I got my name.
The Ram Sethu bridge or Adam’s bridge, they say still exists under water. Geological evidences they say. However, to you mere mortals, that is no longer visible. However, on a clear night you can see the twinkling lights of Sri Lanka from this side of the coast.
Good Times of Dhanushkodi
I was located in Pamban Island along the south east coast of India. If you visit me, you can see the gorgeous blue waters of the bay of Bengal mixing with the Indian ocean. I was a small bustling town with my own railway station, post office, customs office, medical centers & even a secondary school. I had trains like the boat mail visiting me from Chennai, carrying passengers who wanted to ferry out to Talaimannar in Sri lanka. With the holy center of Rameshwaram next to me, I was a natural stop for all visitors too. Life was good until that fateful day of 22nd December, 1964.
Calamity at Dhanushkodi
The winds kept howling & picking up speed through the day, thanks to the low pressure and high pressure areas in the Andaman sea. I was no stranger to these, but that day was different. By midnight, the terrible Rameshwaram cyclone attacked me. At 270 km/h, there was little that I could do to withstand the force. To add to that, the calm waters turned stormy and waves of over 20 ft. high swept over my little town & took away all life with it.
The Pamban – Dhanushkodi express with its 115 passengers was completely eaten by the waves & the entire railway station & tracks submerged. The winds & the waves left nothing intact & spared no one. Just 4 brave souls – radio operators, who clung onto the Pamban bridge for their dear lives were left behind. These guys risked their life to give some live broadcasts & were rewarded suitably for their bravery. However, none can ever heal those scars that the night left behind.
Following the destruction, the government declared me unfit for living. Today, I stand here alone & desolate with just 50 fishermen families living amidst the skeletons of what was a lively town.
Arichal Munai
Today when you come to visit me you are allowed to come by your own vehicles. But earlier you were allowed to come only to a certain point. After that, you need to alight & board the special tempo travelers that first take you to Arichal Munai or the Erosion point. But fortunately now you can ride along with your own vehicles. The ride along is a fascinating one if you have your Google map on – you will see yourself travelling along a narrow strip of land with waters on both sides. The fun part is when you look around, you will see the same – sea on both sides & you on literally a strip of land.
Far & wide, you will only see white sands and blue waters. No other sign of life. People tell em that it is quite depressing to note that & yet, when you arrive at the Arichal Munai, you can’t help admire the tranquil beauty of blue water. You can step in & wade a little but beware, for this has sudden depths. Hence swimming is an absolute no – no. It is from here that you can see Sri Lanka on a clear night but since, night ventures are not allowed, you will have to take my word for it.
Stay a while & take in the sights, buy something from the little shopping shacks & then head to what remains of my erstwhile lively town.
The remains of the old town of Dhanushkodi
The first thing you will see is the remains of the old railway station. Should you dare to walk along a little further, you will see a few covered tracks.
Behind the railway station, covered with is the old church. A mere shadow of itself, you will not be able to help yourself as you walk through it. Notice the small alter or the remains of it. Just pause for a moment & think what might it have been.
Next to it, was the post office & police station. And further down, a huge structure that remains is that of the town school. No more of the blackboards or the benches are seen. No more chirpy sounds of the kids or the pattering footsteps of them queuing up for their morning prayers.
Sands of time have covered the ruins but none can ever erase or deny my memory of what I, Dhanushkodi was.
My thoughts on Dhanushkodi
Now that you have heard the tales of Dhanushkodi in its own voice, it’s time to share what I felt about it.
Visiting Dhanushkodi was just a beautiful & sad experience – melancholic is the right word here. At the Arichal Munai, as I gazed at the sea, I wondered how such a beautiful piece of nature was capable of that blinding fury. While venturing around those crumbling walls of the erstwhile town, I could not help but think of the lives of people back then.
I could see them attending a Sunday Mass at the old church. I could see the kids running around the beachy playground of their school. I could visualize the post office stamping envelopes & sorting out the mail. And then, a huge wave just sweeping away all those lives. It made me realize that how nothing in life is permanent. It made me also realize how we need to live each day to its fullest for you never know when the disaster strikes.
Yes, Dhanushkodi left me uncomfortably pensive but also, thankful for the good things in my life. And if you are in Rameshwaram, I think a visit here would be good for you too. It’s bound to open up your mind, especially if you pause like me admist the old walls of Dhanushkodi to hear the Whispers of its tale.
Travel tips
- Entry to Dhanushkodi after 5 pm is not allowed. Your visit here can start as early as 7 am.
- There are no cafes or restaurants here. You can get some basic package snacks & bottled water only. I suggest you to carry your own water bottle. So we can reduce the use of plastics.
- There are no restrooms at Dhanushkodi.
- Do not venture into the waters at Dhanushkodi. Swimming is quite unsafe here. And also there are jellyfish in the waters that can sting you.
- Carry plenty of sun screen as it gets hot in th afternoon.
- The entire tour from the checkpoint at Dhanushkodi to back here takes around 2 hours.
- Try not to litter Dhanushkodi. Not just Dhanushkodi but all the places we visit.
The Solo Traveller 